Since sharing the Ripple Potholder pattern in an earlier posting at this blog site, I have had requests for a particular type of Ripple Potholder, the Rose Ripple Potholder. Here are three examples of the Rose Ripple Potholder.
The focus of this blog posting is to share the steps to make the Rose Ripple Potholder using heavier density cottons, such as Lily's Sugar 'n Cream, Pisgah's Peaches 'n Creme and Lion Brand Lion Cotton. Suggested modifications for moderate and finer density cottons will be given at the end of this posting.
This pattern is copyrighted. You are welcome to use it with these guidelines: Be sure to attribute this source when posting or presenting potholders made from this pattern and refrain from publishing or selling the pattern or representing it as your own. Otherwise, no other restrictions apply. Enjoy making these for selling, sharing, gifting or your personal use.
To make the Rose Ripple Potholder, you will need a G hook and three colors:
- -Color A is the rose color (in this example, yellow)
- -Color B is the leaf color (in this example, hot lime)
- -Color C is the background color (in this example, white)
Foundation: With color A, ch 4, sl st to form a ring.Round 1: ch 3 to count as first hdc. 8 hdc. (9) Do not join. Mark the first ch 3 with a small piece of contrasting yarn at the base. (9) Rounds 1-2 will be a continuous spiral; do not join, continue in a spiral.
Round 2: Working in back loops, only, make 2 hdc in each st around (18). Do not join.
Round 3: Working in back loops, only, make 2 hdc in each st. Sl st in the back loop of the next st to end the row and break off. (36)
Round 4-6: Still using color A, join with a sl st in the front loop of the first ch 3/hdc that is marked by piece of contrasting yarn. Once you determine this starting st, you can remove the marker and then (ch 3, 3 dc, ch 3, sl st) in that same front loop.
In the next 9 front loops in the spiral: (sl st, ch 3, 3 dc, ch 3, sl st). Total of 10 petals.
From here to the end of the spiral, crochet the same sequence: (sl st, ch 3, 3 dc, ch 3, sl st) in every other front loop: Break off color, bring all yarn tails to the back of this rose and secure the ends.
Round 7: Using color B (leaves), 3 ch in any back loop of the rose to count as first dc. In the same st: dc, ch 2, 2 dc. Ch 1. *Skip 3 back loops, in the fourth back loop: (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) ch 1. Repeat from * around for a total of 9 of these sets.
Round 7 is the same as the round nearest to the center in the diagram below.
NOTE: on Rounds 8-11, skip over two stitches from the end of one ripple and two more stitches to start the next ripple. In other words, there are four stitches skipped between ripples. The skipped stitches are seen in red-orange in the diagram below.
Round 8: *In ch 2 sp, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc). Repeat from * in all ch 2 spaces around. Break off color.
Round 9: This will a round in which there are four dc's going up the ripple to the peak and then, after 2 ch's, four going down to the valley.
With color C (background color), join in any ch 2 sp. Ch 3 (to serve as first dc), dc, ch 2, 2 dc, 2 dc in the top of the next dc, Skip over 4 dc’s and in the top of the one before the ch 2 sp, 2 dc. *In the ch 2 sp, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc). 2 dc in the next st. Repeat from * around and end with 2 dc in the st before the cluster in the ch 2 sp. Sl st to join round.
Round 10: This will be a round in which there will be five dc’s going up the ripple to the peak and 5 going down to the valley.
Sl st to start in the ch 2 sp. In the ch 2 space, ch 3 (first dc), dc, ch 2, 2 dc . Dc in the next st, 2 dc in the next st, Skip four st. [see diagram] 2 dc after the second st in the ripple. 1 dc in the next st. *In the ch 2 sp (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc). Dc in the next st, 2 dc in the next st. Skip four st. 2 dc in the next st, 1 dc in the next st. Repeat from * around. Join with a sl st to complete the round.
Round 11: This will be a round of hdc’s instead of dc’s. There will be six hdc’s up the ripple to the peak and six going down the ripple to the valley.
Starting in the ch 2 space: (ch 2, hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc), 1 hdc in each of the next 2 st's, 2 hdc in the next st. Skip four st's. 2 hdc in the next st, 1 hdc in each of the next 2 st's. *in ch 2 sp work (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc), 1 hdc in each of the next 2 st's, 2 hdc in the next st. Skip 4 st's, 2 hdc in the next st, 1 hdc in each of the next 2 st's. Repeat from * around. Join with a sl st to end the round. Break off leaving a 7-inch tail.
This completes side one of your Rose Ripple Potholder. The only difference between sides one and two is in the center. The yellow in the center is flat, no rose is made. The three rounds of hdc, instead of being worked in a spiral in back loops, is made the usual way:
- -9 hdc's for the first round, joined by a sl st
- -18 hdc's in the second round and joined by a sl st
- -36 hdc's in the third round, joined by a sl st
Joining round: For the joining round, a potholder in other colors will be used so you can see the contrasting stitch colors better than using white on white as in the above example.
With wrong sides together and right sides facing out, match up points of both sides of potholder. Starting at the center top of the potholder, (which should be a valley), join yarn (and leaving a 7 inch tail for later use to attach the hanging ring) sc through both front and back pieces. [Refer to a, left]
You are going to go toward the center of the potholder with a series of top crochet stitches in the valley between ripples. Work top crochet stitches like this: around the last hdc round to the back to catch the yarn and bring it from the back to the front to complete what looks like a ch stitch. Continue toward the center going down, around, under the next dc round to the back and picking up the yarn to bring to the front. [Refer to b.]
This photo shows the hook pointed down, around and under a dc round.The next photo [Refer to c.] shows the yarn, having been caught from the back and being brought up to make the front st. The back st is a straight line but the front st looks like a ch.
Note: Be sure to keep checking the back to make sure you are catching the stitch in the same open space under the dc rounds on both sides of the potholder.
Continue toward the center with the front to back top crochet stitches. At the center, catch the top st of the center color on both the front and back sides. Draw up your stitch to make a nice, neat little st. [Refer to d.] You may want to use your fingernail (left hand) to hold the st in place as you complete the pulling up.
At this point, you will be going back up toward the outer edge. Your stitches will be adjacent to the first line of st going down and slightly to the left.
This photo [Refer to e.] shows the nearly finished second row of st's returning back to the outer edge. At this point, when you reach the top, go over the top to catch the yarn and draw up.
Continue with sc's in each st, again going through both front and back pieces, to the top of the ripple peak (i.e. ch 2 sp). When you get to the ch 2 sp, *sc, c1, sc. Sc in next 6 sc going down the side of the ripple, continue with the two lines of stitches as shown in photo examples a-e.
Continue around the potholder [Refer to f.] Sc in the next 6 st's to the left of the valley (going up the next ripple/peak) Repeat from * around. St st to the top of the first sc. Leave a 30 inch tail before breaking off.
Plastic hanging loop: Using a blunt tapestry needle and with the 7 inch yarn tail, secure the loop in place by going around the ring a few times and catching the body of the potholder with each loop.
Then, with the longer yarn tail, make tight button hole/blanket stitches around the loop. Cover your initial securing loops with blanket stitches to conceal them.
Variations: Here are color and yarn variations to this pattern. The potholder with the lime green border has a rose made of "I Love This Cotton!". The peach rose and green leaves rounds (lower right of the four potholders together) are crocheted using Tahki Cotton Classic yarns.
Posted after the fact: I am receiving messages and comments in which I am hearing that the center flower of this potholder resembles: a peony, a chrysanthemum, a carnation and a marigold. While I was thinking more in terms of a wild rose in full bloom, really it could be any of these flowers. I could see one of these flowers made as a homecoming mum with streamers in school colors, for instance. And this is the wonderful power of creating: that something can be interpreted however the individual creator desires.
Pattern modifications for medium density cottons:
Use an F hook. When using cottons such as Tahki Cotton Classic, Red Heart Creme de la Creme, Hobby Lobby's I Love This Cotton! or other similar density yarns, you will need to add one addition ripple for a total of ten ripple spires, rather than the 9 made using the denser cottons. To do this, your first center rounds would be 10, 20, and 40 stitches. You want the total number of stitches in the last center round to be divisible by 4. That is, 40 stitches divided by 10 (ripples) is 4 because you will start the ripples in sets of four. The ripple rounds are started by working the cluster (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in a stitch and then skipping 3 stitches for a total of 4 stitches per ripple start. Another modification, Instead of the last ripple round being hdc's, it would be better to crochet dc's that round to increase the overall width of the finished potholder.
Pattern modifications for finer density cottons:
Use an F hook. If using J&P Coats Royale Fashion Crochet Thread (size 3) or Patons Grace cotton yarns, add 3 additional ripples to the original pattern of 9 ripples per potholder for a total of 12 ripples. You will probably need to add two additional center rounds of hdc's and make the final round divisible by 4 (48 hdc's). As I have not crocheted one of the Rose Ripple Potholders using the finer cotton, I am only postulating possible modifications. Two other anticipated modifications: the final hdc ripple round should be dc's and an additional ripple round would need to be added to increase the overall size. When I actually make one, I will post the recommended changes.
Giving Credit and My Highest Recommendation: I want to note something about the inspiration for the center rose for the Rose Ripple Potholder. It is a modified version of a flower found in a Leisure Arts booklet called Chase the Chill. Project number 7 in this particular publication gives directions for the fullest, lushest crocheted flower and whenever I want the best flower embellishment for a project, I turn to this booklet. However, for this project I wanted the flower to be more rose-like and less full and round so, while I was influenced by the one in this booklet, what is stated in this pattern is different. I am particularly mentioning the booklet to all of my crochet friends because I hope everyone will pick up this booklet to have as a personal reference/resource. I highly recommend the flower pattern for hats, brooches, gift embellishments or wherever you need a really special flower.
Copyright 2010, C. Lowman/Delights. All Rights Reserved.